Lifestyle

Granny Barry’s marmalade: splitting the atom requires less faffing about, but it’s sublime

I was given a basket of Seville oranges when they were in season by a friend from the country. It was thoughtful of her, even if she did have an ulterior motive. It seems she planted the tree for the sole purpose of making sure I would keep her supplied in marmalade, possibly for life. […]

Lifestyle

Rachel Roddy’s recipe for spring vegetable and cheese tart

Until a few months ago, I had no idea that the reddish-purple flowers decorating the overgrown park behind the post office were mallow. It was getting a dog, an energetic and eager black-and-white brittany (with a bit of setter) who takes me for walks, and her habit of tugging persistently at certain roots, that made […]

Lifestyle

A year of emotional eating? Don’t feel guilty. We need comfort, not ketosis

You know how people fill online baskets with clothes they never buy? I do that now with food. I see something advertised, compile an extravagant order, then don’t follow through. In the past few weeks, I have almost ordered hand-pulled noodles, oysters and something described as a “pistachio black forest gateau” (I am still thinking […]

Lifestyle

Thomasina Miers’ recipe for new-season garlic, fennel and thyme cassoulet

Several years ago, at my aunt Penny’s house, we had a memorable lunch for which she made Yotam Ottolenghi’s fennel gratin to go with a mouthwatering spring lamb. Never before had I tasted such a silky mass of tumbled, sweet, caramelised fennel, and I had three helpings. Skip to February, when I was trying to […]

Lifestyle

Ainsley Harriott: ‘I talk to my ingredients when I’m cooking’

Growing up, television was the only form of entertainment at home, apart from our Encyclopedia Britannica volumes, which were so enormous and packed with so many thin pages that we only reluctantly referred to them for schoolwork. Otherwise, we used to congregate as a family in the dining area, where there was a television. I […]

Lifestyle

What can I do with wild garlic?

“Any serious cooking turns wild garlic into green slurry,” warns writer and gardener Mark Diacono. “Pesto suits it well, because it’s only just warmed through by the heat of the pasta.” So, faced with an abundance of the stuff, Christine needs dishes that require little or no cooking. Thankfully, eggs welcome that kind of thinking, […]